By: Alexis Shoats
During New York Fashion Week on a Friday evening, I patiently waited for the live stream show of Willy Chavarria’s Spring/Summer 2025 collection to begin. The designer has been a favorite to watch grow since his Spring 2022 collection. The high-waisted dress pants with silk boxers stitched inside gave a peek-a-boo effect, putting the designer on everyone's radar. Chavarria invokes various facets of his life into his designs such as his culture, upbringing, and the people he loves and is inspired by. His brand carries the authenticity and rich spirit of Chicano culture, Catholicism, regal, and street culture wrapped in one. It is simply divine.
This season he upscaled these themes while grounding the collection's look around working-class and marginalized groups. As he’s done in the past he has centered minorities and marginalized people at the core of his collections, and this year he made it an even bigger point. Titling this collection, América. In an interview with Instyle, Chavarria states, “I wanted to show the value of Brown skin people, Black people, Queer People, and Trans people. Under this great American flag behind us.” Chavarria uses fashion to send a message that tells the story of immigrants, minorities, and working people and reminds us to heed the presidential election. Before the show, Chavarria stated he wanted to “Do a show that reminds everyone that we belong and have a place in this country.” He partnered with Adidas to design a few sportswear pieces and brought back the Kareem Abdul Jabbar shoe. Citing the legendary former NBA player as a huge inspiration, and someone he looked up to as a kid, specifically because of his stance on social justice.
When asked by Jose Criales-Unzueta on Vogue’s On the Runway podcast, he also cited the United Farm Workers and Civil Rights Movements as inspiration for the collection. Explaining that these movements gave people the energy to fight for change, the energy he also wanted to invoke and move people to vote this fall.
Under the American flag, he opened the show with a performance from Querida by Yahritza y Su Esencia. The lights dim then come back up and the first model walks out wearing high-tailored khakis with Willy’s signature styled jacket with billowing sleeves and a dress shirt. A work outfit, hence the keys chained to his belt loop. If you pay attention to the first 12 or so looks, you can see the references to the United Farm Workers Movement. Looking back on photos of what everyday members wore at the time, you can see the ways Willy has taken reference from these members and the leaders of the movement like Cesar Chavez.
You can also clearly point out the nods to the Civil Rights Movement. Looks 25, 26, 27, 28, and 35 stand out to me the most. (you can view the entire collection on the Vogue runway app.) Protesters would wear their Sunday Best while marching. Proving to racists and those who doubted their movement, that they were dignified. It also served as a tool to send a message that they demanded the movement be taken seriously. Wearing your best clothing to Church was not only a moment to show your personality, it was a serious matter, and this attitude toward church dressing continues present-day throughout the country. These protesters were strong in their approach to the movement and would continue to show up in their best despite being hosed, beaten, and attacked by police dogs.
So from the strong yet elegant suits, and the exquisite gloves the rapper YG is modeling, down to patent leather dress shoes the spirit of the movement is beautifully woven throughout the collection. There is also a humble nod to zoot suits which has deep ties to Black and Latino culture. Zoot suits originated in the 1920s by the Chitlin Circuit and were made popular by Black men in the 1930s. They were also criminalized during the Zoot Suit riots of 1943 by the Los Angeles Police and U.S. Servicemen against Mexican-American youth. Mexican-American youth were attacked and stripped of their zoot suits by servicemen stationed in southern California. The zoot suits are now an integral part of Chavarria’s brand, allowing the designer to reclaim an article of clothing the United States racially deemed criminal.
For the rest of the collection, the inspiration is everyday working people, which is the perfect cherry on top. Ranging from work-inspired clothing to relaxed weekend outfits including streetwear pieces in collaboration with Adidas, and a touch of catholicism for Sunday’s church service. This collection feels deeply personal and demands a more equal and inclusive future.
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